The Grey Lady, Part VI: Gores and Princess Seams

Before assembling the dress itself, I had to make the gores to be inserted in the seams. The gores were easyРI just cut 45-degree arcs of fabric with a radius the same length as the skirt section, then stitched one side of each gore to the side front panels. After that, I just ran all of the princess seams through the sewing machine to assemble the body of the dress.

GL gores

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The Grey Lady, Part V: Cutting!

Before I cut into my fancy fabric I cut out my pattern pieces from the lavender polyester lining, just to see how the final¬†pattern changes had affected the cutting layout and yardage requirements. When I cut out my mockup I had just enough fabric to do it at 6 yards of 45″ material, which is exactly what the pattern said I’d use for that width. However, after making my changes for the lining I actually have almost a full yard left from my original 6 yards, so it’s apparent that reducing the hem length back down and cutting the sleeve in separate pieces had quite an effect on the yardage.

I’ve still been pretty nervous about whether I have enough embroidered fabric to make this dress. The pattern says that I can use 4 yards of 60″ wide fabric, but instead I have 4 1/3 yards of 54″ wide. I’ve studied the cutting layout but it’s not really much help– I’m just glad that the embroidery design is omni-directional, so it won’t matter if I cut some pieces upside-down. So here it is, the moment of truth…

GL cutting layout

It works! Good thing I cut the hem shorter, it never would’ve worked with all that extra length. I do have a little wiggle room on cutting out the sleeve pieces, but it was really close otherwise. So glad that turned out all right!