The Grey Lady, Part XII: Hemming and Trim

Once all of the structural elements of the dress were done with all the seams finished, I finally hemmed it. The first step was putting it on the dress form and doing a preliminary pinning, but then I put it on myself and had my husband adjust the height of the hem so it actually worked for me (not making the same mistake I did with the bodice here). I trimmed the extra fabric and used the seam binding to bind the raw edge of the hem, then used that edge to machine-hem the dress with a blind stitch. The video below explains it fairly well.

You don’t really need a blind hem foot to do this– just keep a close watch on where your stitches are landing relative to the folded edge. Especially with a more textured fabric, it won’t matter if your stitches are a little bigger than expected.

GL hem

So I’ve got the main dress done, but I wanted to add a little something to embellish it at the neckline. I wasn’t about to do any hand-embroidery or beading in my limited timeframe, so I looked for some nice appliques instead. I looked at a lot of different types, including venise lace, soutache, and even sari trim, but eventually I decided on some silver embroidered appliques in a vaguely floral pattern. They’re not too shiny and not too ornate, so they embellish without overpowering.

The design is a straight line of embroidery, so to make the appliques fit my curved neckline I had to do a little cutting. Once I had them placed correctly I tacked them in place with tiny hand stitches, then ironed them (they’re iron-on appliques) for a permanent finish.

GL trim

Finally, I sewed on that row of sleeve buttons I mentioned earlier, to make the vertical seams on the sleeves look like an intentional design feature.

GL trim buttons

… and that’s it. I’m done with the dress. Finally! I’ll post pictures of the whole outfit soon!

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