The Grey Lady, Part IX: Bindings, Facings, and Topstitching

Okay, so remember how I went to all the trouble of picking out lavender lining fabric and cutting all my pattern pieces out of it before moving on to my embroidered fabric? I honestly did intend to do a lining at that point, but after trying the dress on I realized that the inside really wasn’t all that scratchy after all. Plus, as the weather has warmed up I’ve realized that it’s going to be awfully hot at the end of May, and I won’t really want another layer of non-breathable fabric next to my skin to hold the sweat in. So I’ve decided to skip the lining. I’m going to put in a neckline facing to finish that edge, and since the inner seams will now be exposed (at least from the inside) I’m binding them with Hug Snug, a rayon seam binding that will finish the edges and prevent them from fraying.

First up is the seam binding. While more experienced sewers may be able to simply iron it in half and sew both sides at once, I opted to go with the more cautious method and first stitched one side of the binding to one side of the seam allowance, then turned it over and did the other side. It took FOREVER, but it made the inside of the dress look infinitely better than it did before.

GL seam binding

Once those were done I finalized the neckline of my dress, then traced it out on paper to draft a pattern for the facing pieces. I made the facing out of material from the gores (interfaced with lightweight iron-on interfacing), and then sewed it, right sides together, to the neckline. Then I flipped it over and understitched it to keep it lying flat.

Next I decided to do a little work to keep the details on the dress in place– first I stitched down a 1/2″ pleat right along the seam on the back side pieces where the lacing loops were installed to encourage proper folding of the center back panel.

GL back seam

To combat the puffiness of the gore seams, I turned the bound seam allowances towards the embroidered fabric, pressed them well, and topstitched a scant 1/4″ away from the seams around each gore. It keeps the seams flatter and the topstitching is relatively unobtrusive.

GL topstitching

I still need to put in the sleeves and do the final trim, but it’s so close to being done!


One thought on “The Grey Lady, Part IX: Bindings, Facings, and Topstitching

  1. Pingback: Belle Epoque Wisteria Gown, Part VII: Embroidery | It's All Frosting...

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